I have been meaning to write about Bundi, one of the most beautiful places I have visited in Rajasthan and even India. Just 40 km from Kota, the ugly industrial town, Bundi has managed to stay largely undiscovered and consequently unspoilt; ‘off the beaten track’ does not begin to describe Bundi…
On the way to the fort
Bundi is a series of one delightful discovery after another. Sadly, I did not know enough about Bundi to realize than that it deserved more than just a day trip from Kota. The tourism websites list many many “sightseeing” options but we ventured on our own and stuck to what seemed most inviting. And we were not disasspointed.
First was the Chaurasi Khambhon-ki-Chatri or the 84 pillared cenatoph. Although the blazing heat did not make this seem very exciting then, this is what I found out about this place later. This 84-pillared cenotaph was raised in the memory of Deva, the son of the wet nurse of Rao Raja Anirudh Singh. Built on a high platform this unique double story cenotaph has a large Shivlinga at the center, which makes it both a temple as well as a cenotaph.
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And then on to the most famous of the stepwells of Bundi, Raniji ki baori. Built in 1699 by and for Rani Nathavatji, this stepwell is 46 metres deep and is supposed to be one of the largest stepwells in that region. Interestingly, apart from serving as private swimming pools for the royal ladies, these stepwells also acted as reservoirs in the hotter months.
Raniji ki baori was as dry as Bombay on Gandhi Jayanti and the main gate was locked, the key with an inebriated (at lunch time) watchman who vanished on seeing us. However, the exquisite carvings and arches all along the sides were enough to make that trip worth it.
Our final destination for the day was the Garh Palace.
A steep climb along a roughly cobbled path takes you to this entry to the palace.
Being inside the palace is time travel as I have experienced it – seeing another age, another life in front of your eyes.
Only parts of the palace are open to the public; there was noone else in the palace at that time and we went around at our own pace, looking at the captivating murals on the walls and ceiling and pillars. One of the rooms is kept locked and was opened for our benefit; the walls which must been full of colur at one time had now faded and peeling murals (and some obnoxious graffiti too) but the government seems to be doing something to preserve whatever was remaining. The room is kept dark and flash photography is strictly prohibited.
Thankfully, the most captivating portion, the Chitra Shala or the palace of paintings was open. The walls and ceiling of the chitra shala are filled with traditional murals of the Bundi school of painting, all dating back a few centuries (I am not aware of the exact date). Most of them depict scenes from Krishna raas-leela, with a few chest thumping murals thrown in between about the splendors of the kingdom – glimpses of court life, animals of the region, hunting scenes and the like.
I could have easily spent hours at the chitra shala, especially the watchman there had kindly allowed me to take pictures without using a flash. Except it was getting dark and we had to get back to Kota. Without seeing Taragarh fort and the other “sightseeing” marvels that the afore-mentioned tourism websites go on and on about…
When I have a lot of money, I am going back to Bundi to spend a few days there, taking in the colors on each mural at the Chitra shala and walking up and down the Taragarh fort. And all the while, staying in sinful luxury at some ancient haveli converted into a hotel for the sake of tourists like me. When I have a lot of money…
Fantastic photographs. Absolutely beautiful.
Amazing pictures, especially the one with the entry gate and the view of the lake.
Why was Rao Raja Anirudh Singh’s nurse wet?
And how did the watchman manage to get inebriated in the dry Raniji ki Baori?
Nice post. Photos are really amazing.
Lovely pictures and a wonderful write up accompanying them!
I’ve seen some fantastic pictures from Bundi on flickr, many of them being the ones you’ve taken. I’ve definitely putting it on my places to visit list.
Yup, one more person who writes to say — those photos are excellent.. and now I can go look up more on the history of Bundi.
Fantastic pictures!
Charu,
Great article and superb photos. India has some unbelievable gems that people simply do not know about due to lack of publication. A few weeks ago I went to Hampi in Northern Karnataka. It was the most incredible man-made thing I have ever seen – for me it was more impressive than Taj Mahal. Hopefully I will be able to write an article on this magical place sometime soon.
On a different note, thanks to this article and your photos, I have put Bundi as one of the places I have to visit before leaving India!
Hi Charu
Beautiful photos and excellent commentary.
Like Sunil, maybe you have a talent for writing travel guides. I will definitely remember this post if we ever travel to Rajasthan
Sujatha, Anand, shoefiend, bicyclemark, Chetan, hey all, thanks! I fell in love with Bundi instantly and have been planning to write about it since I came back (which is eeps, almost a year now).
Akshay, Vikrum, Michael, I cannot recommend it enough. try visiting in the cooler months.
Gawker, eeks!
Vikrum, I have heard so much about Hampi – don’t know when I will get to go there. there are other places close by in Rajasthan which you can club with this.
Michael, I love writing about places and travel. maybe I will start a travel series where I can post from time to time… what do you all think?
Wow… this is really beautiful. I think you should definitely start a travelogue of the places you visit. This was wonderful to read.
Very nice Charu…….those pics had me drooling, and left me with the desire to pack my bags and head towards Rajasthan…….look fwd to more of these travelogs/pics.
ps: how much money would you say is “lots of money”? 🙂
You have really captured the magic of the place. Great photos !
Michael, thanks for the tip-off to desipundit 🙂
Anshul, thanks, will do… more of Rajasthan coming up!
Sunil, when I have lots of money, I will know it – cannot define it now. and believe me, you all will also know it (when I have lots of mney, i.e. :))
plus ultra (surf?:)) thank you!
Awesome pictures..fav. one being the entry to the palace..and ofcourse enviable write-up..since u wish u were there too 🙂
Ramchi, long time! thanks 🙂
Charu
Nice pics and excellent narration. ey how is Bundi pronounced? Is it “Boon Thee” or “Boon Dee”? I was wondering how the emphasis on the “Di” in Bundi was. Is it as in “boondi ladoo”?
Sourin
I actually didn’t know what a wet nurse was. I hope you didn’t think I was being obscene or something. I had to go to dictionary.com and find out.
wet nurse
n.
1. A woman who suckles another woman’s child.
2. One who treats another with excessive care or solicitude.
Sourin, thanks!
ya, it is as in Boondi ladoo. or laddu, whichever way 🙂
gawker, I did think you were being “funny” (as in trying to be:)) but not obscene! thought you knew!
(and the watch-man was clearly drunk on more than water – which explains why it didnt matter that the step well was dry:))
Charu – mumbai isn’t dry at all on Gandhi jayanti day. or independence day. 🙂
Great pics.and brill write up.
i hate rajasthan – truly do. but maybe i will just make an exception to go and visit this place.
Harini, I know you hate rajasthan – the men there 🙂
but Bundi is truly beautiful and untouched… how much longer, I cannot say
I’m jealous of you!
Excellent photos capture a very beautiful place which as you say seems unspoiled.
The architecture and painting are radiant!
I will go there when I visit India, and stay in this town as you would have like to.
Charu, Pictures of heartbreaking beauty! Is there a group in India that arranges trips to less traveled places?
Hi there..
Am going to Bundi today.. It was a pleasure getting a preview on your blog.
it is lovely article
i had been staying in bundi for 15 yrs
but never realised but now i have to go back as now it has been since 10 yrs i havent back there
hi any body from bundi can mail me on my adress sonu_dubai007@yahoo.com