Keeping warm the Kashmiri way

As Delhi winter draws to an end and the days get warmer, I am thinking of my brief stint with the cold and snow in Kashmir in January. Different cultures learn to keep warm in different ways. While the Bhutanese, for instance, eat chillis to keep warm, Inuits use seal oil lamps and animal skins,…

6 great reasons to stay at The Khyber

I recently spent a lovely three days / nights at The Khyber in Gulmarg, my first visit to mainland Kashmir (I have only been to Ladakh earlier). I sipped on endless cups of Kahwa, rode up a gondola, got pampered at the spa and spent several hours gazing dreamily into the snowfall. I particularly liked…

Snow in Gulmarg

I just got back from a quick trip to Gulmarg, where I stayed at The Khyber. This resort bowled me over, with its stunning location facing the snow-clad mountains (more coming up on this soon). When I checked into The Khyber earlier this week, the real snow – and therefore, ski – season had not…

Friday photo: Monklings

From a morning at Thiksey monastery – monklings bustling about, mock fights, introspection, laughter and prayers… ~ Also see: Friday photo series ~ Read other posts from Ladakh here

Friday photo: Thiksey

Just back from a quick trip to Ladakh for review a fabulous new luxury camp – watch out for it in print soon. So, this Friday, a photo from my one of my favourite Ladakh monasteries – Thiskey. Just before the commencement of the morning puja… Also see: Friday photo series And more stories from…

Tso far tso good

When we reach Tso Moriri, it feels eerily quiet and desolate. No tourists, no locals. And then we hear a feeble sound from the distance. A group of children are playing cricket on the banks of the lake (‘tso’ in the local language). And we start walking towards them. There they are, engrossed in their…

Friday photo: Ladakh

It’s that time of the year when Ladakh is on everyone’s minds. And hell, who am I kidding – Ladakh is always on my mind. This Friday, an image from blue, blue Pangong, where we spent a night shivering against the two blankets and hot water bottle. All completely worth it, just for the way…

On the monastery trail in Ladakh

Have you ever thought monastery hopping could be wretchedly tiring? After the first three, the head begins to buzz, the eyes glaze over and all of them begin to look similar. And you know you want to see a few more. After all, Ladakh is known to have the highest concentration of Buddhist monasteries (gompas)…