The story of Anokhi Museum

The pink sandstone haveli with its elegant arches and windows is easy to miss. Many of the locals have not even heard of the Anokhi Museum of Hand Printing, found down a narrow dusty lane at Amber, eight miles outside of Jaipur, where women walk in colourful saris and children suspend their noisy games to…

Friday photo: Pushkar

From the Pushkar camel fair last year, a portrait… Here’s a photostory I’d written on the fair: Camels, Colour And A Million Gods *** Friday Photo (Nov 23): Cesky Krumlov Friday photo (Nov 16): Chettinadu

Camels, colour and a million gods

The scene at Pushkar is everything I expect from a mela. Not surprising, considering that like many of my generation, urban born and bred, my idea of a mela has been shaped by innumerable Hindi films where young hapless children are forever being separated from their mothers and siblings. Sure enough, the loudspeakers blare out…

Of Kipling and goblins

The petite Indian city of Bundi has played muse to artists – most famously, writer Rudyard Kipling, photographer Virginia Fass and poet Rabindranath Tagore – but it has managed to deflect the prying eyes of the tour groups and backpackers. They have come, seen and conquered the rest of Rajasthan – pink Jaipur, blue Jodhpur…

Sunset over Pichola

If you happen to be in Udaipur and someone recommends the ropeway ride (someone is sure to, locals are so proud of it), take their advice. I almost did not. Bah, ropeway, tourist trap. Well, that it is. But it also a wonderful experience – not the cable car trip per se but the view…

MB at LMB

So Jaipur is not just about the street snacks – though I’d be perfectly content to live on them all my life, hyper-acidity or not. There is also Lakshmi Mishthan Bhandhar. So I head there for lunch Sunday afternoon – and bravely, foolishly order the Rajasthani thali. And it arrives. One look at it and…

Nine ladies. One elephant.

Now I don’t know what you are thinking after reading that title. But here is what I mean. This board at the Jaigarh fort was about the attractions of the Jaipur City Palace. Large silver jar, Dacca Mulmul, swords and daggers – all check. But this nine boys and elephant made of nine ladies –…

Greetings from Ganesh Chaturvedi

I find Lal Khan on my first morning in Jaipur – the watchman at my hotel hails Khan’s auto and we bargain. Sightseeing, I say, knowing no other word to describe ‘random roaming’ – he looks blank for a moment – I wave my hands helplessly and say, Hawa Mahal, Palace, Johri Bazaar… his eyes…