Of nine nights

Navaratri is here. The festival of nine nights. And ten days. This used to be one of my favourite festivals as a child. And still is – Vibrant Gujarat and Disco Dandiyas notwithstanding. Not to forget the latest noise ban.

When did the kolu magic fade for me..?

As a child, Navaratri meant ten days of sheer joy. Unpacking the dolls and idols from trunks stored in the loft, arranging and decorating the kolu. What can we do differently this year (the main kolu was the same series of steps with dolls arranged on them by the corner of the room was the ‘special effects’ area – the child-friendly space)… A cricket field now. A marriage scene then. Setting up a fountain. Amateurish efforts at livening up the traaditional kolu.

The endless stream of visitors, pattu pavadai and sundal and sweets. And visiting all houses in the neighborhood. And those of relatives and friends. And that fleeting feeling of smugness – our house kolu is so much prettier – before it is suppressed by more nobler thoughts.

And just waiting to be asked to sing. And breaking into song without a hint of self-consciousness… All those days of paatu class finally paying off…

Where did that innocence vanish?

Culminating in the Saraswati Puja; honouring books and art and instruments. Good, please let me do well in my exams this year. Followed by the last Dashami day, the best time of the year to start all things new…

As an adult, Navaratri to me no longer means the same…. the kolu and the puja are distant memories, carefully stored away in memory, unlocked to be admired with nostalgia every year. I still love the festival however, having come to appreciate the spirit and the meaning behind the traditions.

To me now Navaratri signifies much more.. it is the one time when the entire country wakes up to an unabashed celebration of womanhood…. the woman as Shakti, the power, the creator and the destroyer… The story behind this is well-known : the demon Mahisha seeking invincibility, obtained the boon from Brahma that he die only at the hands of a woman. Mahisha must have been a smug asura indeed for he believed that he has insured himself against mortality through this boon. for how can a ‘mere woman’ fight the mighty Mahisha?

In order to annihilate this terrible asura was Devi created…. personifying all the qualities of the gods and goddesses. R. K. Narayan in his Gods, Demons and Others describes her thus : they prayed intensely to the Highest Source for help; and Grace descended in the form of emanations from the face of each God : from Brahma’s face a blood-red one, from Shiva’s a dazzling whiteness, from Vishnu’s a dark one. All these combined to form an effulgent female personality, the three colours sparkling as through as prism….

Devi destroyed Mahisha and came to be known as Mahishasuramardhini. durga_DH06_l (from here)

And it is in reverence of this Shakti that Navaratri is celebrated. Devi is in fact considered the embodiment of three powers : iccha shakti (desire), kriya shakti (action), gyana shakti (wisdom). In this tradition, in the South, Navaratri is divided into three parts, each of three nights; the first of the triad is reserved for Lakshmi (wealth), followed by Parvati (courage) and lastly, Saraswati (learning)….

All these associations and memories. And this morning, reading about girls and women spending thousands of rupees on beauty treatments – including back polishing (that woke me up)… And dating services offered by the smart organizers of the community dandiyas, always on the look-out for a business opportunity…

Sigh! Some things will never be the same again…

Just a thought to end : this is the country with one of the lowest sex ratios in the world, where the girl child is unwanted and abused, where the dowry system exhibits itself in the most horrific manner, where the woman is still a second class citizen in many parts….. Where woman is worshipped as Shakti…. the greatest power.

25 comments

  1. Just a thought to end : this is the country with one of the lowest sex ratios in the world, where the girl child is unwanted and abused, where the dowry system exhibits itself in the most horrific manner, where the woman is still a second class citizen in many parts….. Where woman is worshipped as Shakti…. the greatest power.

    and that is why india continues to confound………most contradictions cannot be explained….

    great post, Charu.

  2. Sunil, thanks! yup, contradictions that can never be explained… we aceept them and live with them so cheerfully 🙁

  3. Enjoyed reading it…do you know why they display dolls thoughs? That is one of the mysteries I am trying to find an answer…Kamla

  4. for me navaratri used to be pavadai melaku and going for vetalai paku to the house of someone who has kept kollu. mom used to keep it too – until her age and my workload ensured that it became truncated (aside: i am seriously considering reviving it). singing sarasija nabha sodari .. and then eating boiled channa and whatever other tamilian delicacies tht have been made and coming back homse

    aah! woh din kahan gaye….

  5. Kamla, thanks! I haven’t been able to figure that out either – noone seems to know – but it is a nice tradition so I am not complaining…

    Nicole, thanks!

    Harini, yeah… pattu pavadai and sundal.
    you *must* revive the golu tradition – is great fun – promise I will come and sing 🙂

  6. do you know why they display dolls thoughs?
    During the navaratri period, it is considered auspicious to present tāmbūlam to other women.

    The kolu is, I think, only a pretext for this purpose. Instead of saying “I wish to give you a tāmbÅ«lam, can you come home and collect it?” it is probably more graceful to say, “Please do come over to see our kolu” and give the tambulam when they come.

    In the south, most religious occasions (Vinayaka chaturthi, Varalakshmi vratam, etc.) are observed within the family. It is only the navaratri that is more social. Women invite (for it is an insult not to do so) and visit all their neighbours and friends.

  7. Oh yes! This does bring back good memories. I remember we had to sit and pack sundal for all the invitees and offer fruits to the menfolk and boys who tagged along or came to give their wives a ride. I have an article on my struggles to keep up with tradition …concentriccircle.blogspot.com

  8. What a great way to drag dowry meme into Durga Puja!!

    May be you want more people can join with a bunch of feminists for
    lynching of innocent
    people(men,women, children and old and sick)
    under section 498a.

    Do you know what happened when Durga was over-empowered ?

    She indulged in massive destruction. Finally her husband Shiva had to
    sleep in her way to bring her to senses and she accidentally stepped on him.
    That finally made her cool down.

  9. shoe fiend, thanks… keep dropping by!

    Srikanth, it is indeed a social occasin for women to wear their best and meet friends and family. but why the dolls? and only so manys steps – would be really interesting to find the roots of this tradition

    cc, men were so unwanted at such occasions 🙂 – inavaratri and kolu were such a women thing! yes, packing the sundal in small plastic covers…

  10. After coming to this country, I realized that while most Indian festivals were a time of celebration for the whole family, there were certain gender-specific ones. When looked at it the context of how Americans do it too (gender-specific parties), I realized that the nearest equivalent of the men’s night out is Avani Avittam (it is a men’s day out in India :-)) and the women’s night out is Navarathri/Kolu, albeit both having religious significance. In my family, we celebrated Golu even though I had no sisters and I used to do the neighborhood invites, dressed up as Lord Krishna 🙂

  11. Hi..
    A Resident of Dubai,and have kept kolu for the first time..inspiration is my seven year old daughter, who wanted it as well. i love traditions which adds colour to our life and I am so glad that India and espescially Hinduism has so much to offer. Forget superstitions, take what you like and feel good about. Still a question on why dolls decorated..I understand the social aspect, females and children visiting together etc…but why dolls??

    Cheers

  12. Kolu – We live in California, USA and have continued the tradition of celebrating Navaratiri by displaying dolls – Kolu. My 9 year old son gets excited during Kolu season. He takes care of the kolu on the floor – building with lego blocks, making paper houses, setting up of the park, zoo, temple – a closer resemblance of the Madurai Meenakshi, village houses with fields with Mustard/Dhania/Fenugreek, airport and train station. I am thankful to my parents for giving me a wonderful opportunity to display our talents and I pass it on to my son, born in the United States. Every year, in the weekend, we have a party for over 100 people with ladies reciting slokas like Lalitha Sahasranamam, kids singing songs, and food for the entire family.

    Let’s keep the tradition going! Do your best to preserve the Indian culture.

  13. Thennavan, Sudha, Kapil, Radhika – sorry for this delayed response. the IIPM wars took precedence!

    why dolls – never found an answer – maybe just as enterntainment for the women / girls of the house? India has always been big on idols and statues – maybe this tradition comes from that…?

    Thennavan, true but avani avittam was hardly a fun day out:) it is the day when many men hurriedly look for their poonals from last year!

    Sudha, having a daughter makes kolu so muhc more interesting and relevant, isn’t it? must be quite a feat managing it in Dubai! keep up the good work in future too 🙂

    Kapil, thanks for the link – am going there right away

    Radhika, I am quite impressed that you have managed to keep kolu in California. kolu was till I was ay my parents’ place – after that, it has been only a memory – I live in Bombay and I think it is too much of a hassle – putting it up and getting it down and storing them carefully till the next year. maybe sometime in the future, will start – but not sure about that.
    (yes, the vendhayam which sprouts into green fields:))

  14. Charukesi,

    If you have interest and enthusiasm, you cannot think kolu as a hassle. My 9 year old has always shown interest and excitement during Kolu season. He has been helping us with the floor kolu since he was 4. Parent’s encouragement and involvment counts too. I shall send the pictures in a day or two for you to believe our interest in this tradition.

    In our family, Pongal (with home grown inji/manjal kotthu!?!), Varalakshmi Puja, Avani Avittam, Navarathiri and Deepavali are celebrated with family and friends and other festivals within the family. The place doesn’t matter. Only the interest counts.

  15. Why display dolls? Heard from someone that we are like dolls in different positions, actions, stories etc. To represent these we display dolls.

  16. Hey..As I was browsing the net for contents on golu and “how to do”.. I read you blog. Though being a tamilian, I havent been much exposed to the tradition of golu..Iam determined to carry it this time..its the vibrance that it brings in our lives..Just like all the other festivals across India..Hope its going to be fun with my kid son watching it.

  17. I came across this blog when I searched the web for the Golu start date this year. I have been keeping golu in Northern California for the past 6 years, ever since my daughter turned 2. This year I was contemplating reducing it, but am inspired by this blog to keep the tradition alive and roaring. The tradition followed here in the US is quite unlike the chennai tradition followed by my mom and her peers. The sundal, pattu pavadai and the carnatic music that flows every everning is now replaced with one big band evening. I invite over 50 people for one evening of dinner and music. But it somehow seems to not have the same charm of the celebration in chennai. But it is some part of my cultural heritage that i hope to pass on to my daughter along with the dolls that I have collected.

    Reg. dolls, I remember what my grandma used to say. During her days, dolls were not hawked by vendors as much but were made by the ladies. This in itself was a form of artistic expression for the women as were the kolams and the tasty food that goes with it. My mom still has some hadmade dolls made by my grandma from wood and stitched on fabric.

  18. Can somebody explain how do you set up the dolls? How many steps are arranged and what is the order of display?
    Thanks

  19. What a beautiful post. My family used to keep elaborate kolus for several, several years and this post brought back really nice memories. Packing sundal in plastic covers..cricket set..ramar set.. .chepu (small utensils) ..everything seems a millenium away…

  20. The only story I’ve heard behind the dolls is this one. When Devi fought the demons, all the other Gods were like dolls (bhomais) standing and watching her fury and feat. That’s why supposedly Devi dolls are kept in the top/center of the kolu and other Gods around.

Comments are closed.