48 hours in New Orleans

The tourist throngs usually flock to New Orleans hoping to discover the soul of American jazz music. But in this friendly, muggy little town on a bend in the Mississippi, the stories go beyond music: to freedom struggles, voodoo shops, crawfish gumbo and the literature of Tennessee Williams. Glimpses of history The best place to…

My stay at lebua Corbett

My first experience with the lebua league of hospitality was at Lucknow a couple of years ago. I was so impressed that when I heard about their new property in Corbett, I couldn’t wait to visit. Towards the end of December, my husband and I finally got a chance to travel all the way up…

Corbett Calling

The forest was surprisingly quiet early in the morning, devoid of even the melodious chorus of birdsong that usually reverberates in the air. Dozens of chital (spotted deer) were grazing in companionable silence, looking up with a start at the sound of our jeep and then getting back to the business of breakfast. Grey langurs…

Vegging it out in Goa

On all my earlier trips to Goa, my experience with food could have only been described as basic, sustenance level. What about Goa’s famous Portuguese flavours and fresh seafood, you ask? As a vegetarian, it seemed like all of the state’s local cuisine was out of my reach, which was why I usually ended up…

Smell the coffee in Coorg

When you think it is time to stop and smell the coffee, then you know it is time to head to Coorg. Officially known as Kodagu, Coorg lies in the heart of coffee country, indeed in the area where coffee is believed to have first come to India in the 17th century, hidden inside the…

A morning at Boudhanath

Boudhanath is a beehive of activity when I walk in through the gates early in the morning. It is too early for me. But Boudha, as it is known locally, has been awake for a while. Monks in maroon robes and yellow shawls are circumambulating the stupas, spinning the prayer wheels or prayer beads in…

My food odyssey at Suryagarh

Continued from my earlier post on the Suryagrah experience… As George Bernard Shaw famously said, “There is no sincerer love than the love of food.” And at Suryagrah, one of the most prominent ways in which they show their love for their guests is through the food. Every meal here is a ritual, a celebration…

The golden glow of Suryagarh, Jaisalmer

My Suryagarh experience began right from the moment I stepped out of the small airport at Jaisalmer. Our chauffeurs welcomed us with refreshing cold towels, water bottles, and delicious small bites of namkeen – just the perfect way to end a long flight from Bangalore, via Jaipur. Having stayed at the opulent Narendra Bhawan, their…