Song of the marble rocks

It was only during my seventh or eighth visit to the heart of India – remember that catchy ad ‘Hindustan ka dil dekho’ – that I discovered its heart. Or at the very least, its lifeline. The river Narmada. Flowing softly between the Satpuras and Vindhyas, the Narmada becomes a stunning spectacle near Jabalpur, as…

Monumental Love

The sky is getting darker, as the storm clouds gather, plump and menacing, carrying with them the faint smell of wet earth. Shivering in the cold breeze, I hug my thin shawl closer around my body and look at the tableau on the terrace. Families are sitting together inside the domed alcoves that bookend this…

Silent forest, teeming life

It is a strange feeling, this: half hoping to spot some wildlife and half fearing that I may indeed come across some wildlife. I have never been on a walk inside a forest before and don’t know what to expect. On a misty winter morning, we have just crossed over the Denwa river into the…

Hotels I love: Kanha Earth Lodge

I recently had a chance to spend a few days in Kanha, where I stayed at the Kanha Earth Lodge. Think of a small boutique resort right in the middle of a forest. Add to it the comfort of a home away from home. Throw in warm service, smiling faces and great food. And there…

Friday photo: Safari

Kanha is perhaps the most beautiful forest I have been in, with some stunning landscapes and an abundance of wildlife. So, this Friday, an image from an evening safari inside the Kanha National Park. The sun was just going down and as we turned a corner, this jeep drew up in front of ours, as…

Burning bright again

Tigers are back in Panna, and how! (Published in the special Wildlife issue of Outlook Traveller in October. Click on the image to read the story in pdf form. Photographs and video not part of the published story.) On my evening safari into the Panna National Park, my companions are not happy. They have promised…

A weekend at Pench

It was the summer of the tiger at Pench. True, just one tiger – the Baghin Nala Alpha Male. But then, when I go to National Parks in India, I am happy to see all kinds of fauna. Even the omnipresent chital and langur. Pench is one of the newer Tiger Reserves in India, created…

Friday photo: Maheshwar

This Friday, a memory from Maheshwar, near Mandu… In Mandu, every brick, every building, every nook and cranny whispers stories about the legendary love of prince Baz Bahadur and Roopmati. Though this love story unfolded in the mid 16th century, Mandu itself took shape in the hands of the Parmar kings in the 8th century….