My food odyssey at Suryagarh

Continued from my earlier post on the Suryagrah experience… As George Bernard Shaw famously said, “There is no sincerer love than the love of food.” And at Suryagrah, one of the most prominent ways in which they show their love for their guests is through the food. Every meal here is a ritual, a celebration…

The golden glow of Suryagarh, Jaisalmer

My Suryagarh experience began right from the moment I stepped out of the small airport at Jaisalmer. Our chauffeurs welcomed us with refreshing cold towels, water bottles, and delicious small bites of namkeen – just the perfect way to end a long flight from Bangalore, via Jaipur. Having stayed at the opulent Narendra Bhawan, their…

Past continuous: a peek into Bikaner

Not many people know this, but Bikaner’s story began with a runaway prince. Rao Bika, the eldest son of Maharaja Rao Jodha from the neighbouring kingdom of Jodhpur left his father—and crown—in a huff in the late 15th century to seek his own fortunes and set up a kingdom with his own name. What he…

Friday photo: Bikaner

I recently spent a few days in Bikaner as a guest of the lovely team at Narendra Bhawan (more on that soon) – think piping hot kachoris for breakfast, exquisite Jain temples and opulent havelis. This Friday, a vertical shot of the Rampuria haveli, right at the beginning of our heritage trail that provided a…

One winter weekend in Bharatpur

I have never taken any interest in birds, thinking of it as too much effort for too little reward (yeah go ahead, sue me). The first time I started to notice them was during the trip to Corbett this January, when I stayed with the enthusiastic naturalist Imran Khan at his home The Ranger’s Lodge….

Friday photo: Ranthambhore

From many summers ago, a memory from Ranthambhore… *** Also see: Friday photo series And definitely read my story on Ranthambhore from long ago… Burning Bright

A morning at Ranakpur

A couple of years ago, I was in Udaipur during winter, staying with an extremely warm and friendly family at their homestay. My host was perplexed when I wanted to see the Ranakpur temple, and suggested other “sightseeing” options around the area, and if I must see temples, then why not these and those Hindu…

Of prints and paisley

Close on the heels of the Anokhi museum story, here is a photoessay I had done for Marwar magazine on traditional Rajasthani prints and the hand block printing process – these images are from Sanganer and the Anokhi factory, both near Jaipur. The next time, will visit Bagru village too, to complete the story in…